Author: Haley Wulliman-Gomes

Rio is a vibe. Its lush green curves, sparkling waters, and rhythmic movement can move the soul. The city, considered the “Heart of Brazil”, is a beautifully chaotic mix of Portuguese colonialism and Afro-Brazilian culture. And let’s face it, Rio is also downright intimidating. I mean how many fun, good-looking people can live in one place?

The Marvelous City may have a bad reputation, but I promise you just a few simple steps will guarantee a safe adventure. For a worry-free beach day, leave your phone at the hotel. Need to check for directions or send a text? Tuck into a store to use your phone. Use taxis and the metro to get around the city; both safe and easy to access.

So, pack your sunscreen, feel the vibe, and more importantly relax. “Why rush?” says the carioca, “Your problems will be waiting for you tomorrow.”

Friday

Explore Brazil’s former “White House” in Catete

11:00 am: The Museu da República (@museudarepublica), formerly known as the Palácio do Catete, was the presidential residence from 1897 until 1960, when the capital and the Federal District were transferred to Brasília. Amongst the historical paintings and artifacts, you will find the bedroom, with the gun and bloodied pajamas of President Getúlio Vargas, who took his life there in 1954. Check out the exquisite gardens behind the palace, open to the public and home to various events throughout the year.

Lunch in Glória, visit a historical church 

1:00 pm: Grab a taxi and head up the street to Bistrô da Casa (@bistrodacasa), located in a historic mansion built in 1770. During the week, an affordable executive lunch menu is offered, seating is available inside or poolside. Next door sits the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Glória do Outeiro. Perched on a hill and completed in 1730, it was the preferred church of the Portuguese royal family. Head over after lunch for a visit and great views of the city.

Take the cable car to Sugarloaf Mountain 

3:30 pm: Yes, it’s touristy but remember, you are a tourist. I highly recommend visiting @parquebondinhoat sunset. Book your tickets beforehand for a quick entry, jockey position, and enjoy arguably the most spectacular views you will ever witness. Celebrate with a caipirinha and shrimp croquette at Classico Sunset Club (@classicobeachclub), located on the second peak.

Dine in Botafogo, the neighborhood of coffee barons

8:00pm: Rio is known for cozy, European-influenced restaurants and Sult (@sult.restaurante) is no exception. Recently awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand seal, this white table-clothed restaurant is lined with wine bottles signed by loyal patrons. Start with the mushroom cacio e pepe and move on to the divine meat lasagna covered in velvety cream. Try the tiramisult for a twist on an old classic. 

Saturday

Tour Pequena África, learn about Afro-Brazilian culture

9:00am: Pequena África (Little Africa) is the nickname given by samba composer Heitor dos Prazeres (1898-1966) for the predominantly black neighborhoods in the port area of Rio. Here you will bear witness to the pier where 1 million enslaved Africans disembarked and were sold, the burial site of those Africans who did not survive the forced journey, Rio’s first favela, an urban quilombo, and the birthplace of samba. Book a tour with an official tour guide at @luacariocaafroguide or @etniasturismoecultura. 

Lunch in the historic Centro

12:00pm: Botecos, small casual bars that serve cold beer, snacks, and dishes at affordable prices, are the fiber of carioca culture. Labuta Bar (@labuta_bar) is just that. This breezy carioca establishment serves stupidly cold draft beer and delicious unfussy dishes. Located near Rua do Senado, it’s possible you will hear live samba while noshing on your perfectly crisped pork belly. For a more buttoned-up indoor experience, try their formal sister restaurant, Lilia (@lilia.restaurante), located around the corner. 

Listen to Samba, shop carioca brands

2:00pm: Feeling the vibe of Centro? Head back to Largo da Prainha (@largodaprainha) — a stop on the Little Africa tour — and grab a table at one of the lively restaurants for more cold beer and live samba. Need some retail therapy? Start at Opinião (@use.opinioa), a multi-brand store in Ipanema selling Brazilian brands based on the carioca lifestyle. Down the road sits Rio Design Leblon (@riodesignleblon), a small mall with good eats and carioca brand stores. Don’t miss the handmade sandals at Salts (@siga_salts). 

Dine on seafood, the same place as Madonna 

8:00pm: Satyricon (@restaurante_satyricon) famously hosted Madonna in 1993. I promise this is some of the best seafood the city has to offer. Order a glass of local sparkling wine and a seafood tower to start. Try the grilled lagostins or the most tender octopus you will ever eat, pair both with the lemon risotto. After all that seafood, I recommend a liquid dessert, Licor 43, for a traditional carioca ending.

Sunday

Breakfast in Leblon

9:00am: Juice bars are a thing in Rio. Start your day at BB Lanche (R. Aristides Espinola, 64), a carioca favorite and well-located juice bar in Leblon. Order a fresh juice of your liking, an açai, and a tapioca of your choice — the breakfast of carioca champions! Need a snack later? Order a coxinha, in my opinion the best in the city.

Soak up nature

9:30am: After your juice, walk to Parque Natural Municipal Penhasco Dois Irmãos (@parquedoisirmaosrj) to experience Rio’s unbelievable nature and stunning views of the Christ, Leblon and Ipanema beaches. Here you will find monkeys, toucans and the elusive blue butterfly. Located at the end of Leblon (Posto 12), the park is easy to access and an enjoyable walk to the top.

Relaxed at the beach

11:00am: Go to Barraca do Marcão #167 (@barracadomarcao167) in Leblon located between Posto 11 and Posto 12, rent chairs, an umbrella, and relax. Drink some caipirinhas — a friendly warning, two are plenty and after that, I am not responsible! Try the Rio beach favorites Biscoito de Globo and lemonade with mate tea. 

Lunch like a carioca

3:00pm: Cariocas go to the beach first and lunch after, between 3pm and 5pm. Since you are no exception, head to lunch on Rua Dias Ferreira to join the post-beach crowd and soak up all that cachaça. Galeto do Leblon (@galetoleblon) serves delicious family-style roasted chicken and traditional batata portuguesa (think freshly fried thick potato chips). Two more options are sister restaurants Rainha and Taberna Rainha (@boteco_rainha). Try the torresmo de barriga (crispy pork belly, worth every calorie) then move to a nice fish at Taberna with pureed potatoes. Feeling meaty? Order the picanha and arroz maluco at Rainha. 

Watch the sunset, listen to samba 

5:00pm: Join the locals at Arpoador (@arpoadorrj) to watch the iconic sunset over Dois Irmãos. Just a stone’s throw away sits Alalaô Kiosk (@alalao_kiosk) known for spontaneous samba jam sessions. Hydrate with fresh coconut water and soak in those carioca vibes! 

Haley Wulliman-Gomes is married to a carioca and lived in Rio de Janeiro for 5 years before moving to São Paulo. She is obsessed with the Rio Carnaval samba parades and considers Mangueira her escola de coração. For more information about traveling to Rio, contact Haley @americaninrio.